WARSAW FINE ARTS ACADEMY'S FASHION DEPARTMENT/ PART 2
Geschreven door Damien Ravn
Since I had a deadline myself on Wednesday and I wasn’t able to work in between the 11,5 hours stint on Tuesday I worked on my own collection until 4 AM. It’s always a bit challenging to change your mindset and to be productive after so many hours of work, but I managed. I set my alarm on 6 AM and worked a few hours before my first appointment at 9 AM in school. I knew all along that this would be my last deadline (!) for a really long time, so it was fine for me. #icansleepwheniamdead
First one up on Wednesday was Latvian student Jevgenija Jurkevica. Her collection is inspired by insects, and she studied macro images to achieve her shapes and construction. Inspired by the mesh-like eyes of bugs, the main fabric she’s working with is tulle, in soft pink, white, black, bright orange and Yves Klein blue. She cuts each and every one of the multiple layers in different shapes and finish them all off with contrast coloured satin ribbons. To create a 3D effect we are working on the gradual fading tulle creates when you layer it upon each other. The contrasting ribbons make a very interesting effect as they increase in intensity and overlap each other. Her finished pieces will have much more layering and as you can see on her prototypes there are several notes to indicate the number of layers - AKA this is just a fraction of the amount the real pieces will have! To balance out the excessive use of tulle, we have decided to work on a light taupe coloured fabric for her constructed pieces. This will not fight for attention with the tulle details and it will also bring out the immaculately cut patterns. Interesting work.
Anna Pogudz was up next with her cute rendition of Where the Wild Things Are. Her silhouettes are based on how she portrays the characters in the book and she works with bonded synthetic furs, coated velvets, tie-dye faux suede and bright coloured underlayers complimented with different tones of pastels. Each silhouettes is based on different types of menswear, i.e. the overall. duffle coat, trench, single and double breasted coats, and she works tailoring into drop-shoulder padded kimono sleeves. The silhouettes are straight-cut and comfy with rounded off shoulders and hips contrasted by angular cuts and big cargo-pockets.I just want to snuggle up in that drawstring overall next winter. So cute!
The last collection to see on Wednesday was Dagmara Stawiarska. Dagmara has been through a few different collections since we started in March, but she’s now working on her original inspiration which is Egon Schiele and Death Becomes Her [FYI my favourite movie and literally how Heaven Tanudiredja and I will grow old]. She is basing her collection on plastic surgery and body modification, and she’s molding and gathering tones of nude leathers in different thicknesses to create the appearance of human skin. The leather pieces are big and architectural and combined with silk georgettes to create long, dramatic and decadent silhouettes. There’s a thin line between kitsch and quirky, so I’m definitely looking forward to see how this turns out (!).
After Dagmara I literally had an hour to head downtown, print all my lookbooks, my recent work and press clippings and post everything before my flight back to Belgium. Luckily, as my polish is rather rusty, Ewa Stepnowska offered to join me in the taxi if we could discuss her colours and fabric choices on the way. Clever girl.
I said goodbye to my students and my dear colleagues Janusz Noniewicz, editor in chief of K Mag, and Marta Kalinowska, fashion stylist at Polish Harper’s Bazaar, and we headed off downtown. I’m so glad Ewa joined me, because without her I wouldn’t even be able to print, let alone send anything! In the end Ewa had to call me a taxi and she amazingly shipped and paid everything while I headed off to the airport.
After a few hours of travelling and a train back home I was finally back in Antwerp, and best of all: the day after I would have my 1st day off since JANUARY!!
I slept for 14 hours and spent the whole day watching trash reality shows in a grey tracksuit and I loved every. single. second. of. it.
Sooo... This is my last post (this time around) for Belmodo, so thank you all for following me these past weeks! Hope you had as much fun as I did!
I love the Belmodo team and I’m a HUGE Tiany Kiriloff fan, can’t think of anyone that fits my clothes as well as her, so I hope I’ll be dressing that missy forever and hopefully I’ll be back with the Belmodo team again soon!
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